Whisk together the mustard, vinegars and lemon juice with a
pinch of salt and pepper, and then whisk in the olive oil.
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 pounds wild mushrooms, such as chanterelles, black
trumpets or hedgehogs, cleaned
2 teaspoons thyme leaves
2 teaspoons minced garlic
3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
This is actually more of a technique lesson than a recipe.
Cooking mushrooms is so easy when you do it right; then, once you get the hang
of it, you will find yourself cooking mushrooms all the time, adding them to
salads or pastas, baking them on tarts, or just eating them as is.
1. Make sure
you use a big enough pan (again, the goal is to sear and create caramelization,
not to stew), get the pan hot enough, and really pay attention when you are
cooking. If the pan is smoking and the mushrooms are getting too dark, turn the
heat down; if they give out a lot of water, leave the heat on high and let them
cook without stirring—that liquid will evaporate, and then you can carry on,
adding a little more butter if needed. Persillade is a fancy French way of
saying that something is cooked with garlic and parsley. Simple, but I think
you will agree that sizzling the parsley and garlic together in the butter
really brings out their flavors and permeates the whole dish with a deep,
woodsy, very French flavor.
NOTE: If the mushrooms are large, tear them into
approximately 2-inch pieces. (They will shrink when you cook them, so don’t
make them too small.)
2. Heat two large sauté pans over high heat for 2 minutes. Add
2 tablespoons olive oil to each pan, and heat for another minute.
3. Swirl 1 tablespoon
butter into each pan, and when it foams, scatter the mushrooms in the pans.
Season each with 1 teaspoon thyme, 3/4 teaspoon salt and a healthy pinch of
freshly ground black pepper.
4. Sauté the mushrooms for about 5 minutes, stirring
occasionally, until they’re tender and a little crispy. (The cooking time will
depend on the particular mushrooms you use.)
5. Move the mushrooms to make a
little empty spot in each pan. Place the garlic in that empty spot; cook for a
minute or two, until it sizzles and turns translucent but before it browns. Add
the parsley and toss well, stirring with a wooden spoon, to combine quickly and
integrate the garlic and parsley with the mushrooms. Taste for seasoning.